The Altea EX is a 100W speaker that mean, the speaker will react to voltage upper than 20V during more than few seconds. I have the rn602 as well and love it. The phono input is for use with a turntable cartridge only, everything else is line level and thus should be connected to one of the line inputs. If you’re using an AV receiver, there’s no real advantage to using another digital connection type over HDMI. A-S501 with Apple TV to use Air Play (which I already use with the ridiculous tv’s speakers). That said, the Marantz is a warmer, more musical sound, and the 701 a more neutral, faithful sound. The lowest range featuring these drivers is the Revolution XT range, of which the floor-standing XT6F is exceptional but they’re not cheap. I had QA 2020i paired with As500 – it is bright believe me as QA tends to add a couple of dB in the upper range A couple of questions where you can perhaps give me some guidance: I’m afraid I’ve never heard the 801s – though the A-S501 is a very neutral amp, and isn’t dissimilar in character to the Sony amps of that era so I would imagine it would sound fine. Great to hear you’re still loving your 801, I’ve only heard good things about that amp. The A-S501 is a brighter sounding amp, whereas the A-S701 is more neutral and more powerful. Unfortunately I have no experience of the protection system in those speakers, so all I can suggest is to give it a try and see if it solves the problem. Find almost no need for the rel t zero now. However an A-S700 will give you more power and more control especially at lower frequencies, though with a more neutral character; I.E less bright than the A-S501. If it were up to me no amp would include a DAC at any price but for the most part the inclusion of such is limited to the budget sector, or a few high end products where the budget allowed them to at least do a decent job. I compared it with my Oppo HA-2 portable headphone dac/amp which is more neutral, more detailed and has a wider soundstage. Look forward to your advise. The Marantz pm-6006 / CD-6006, Cambridge CXN, AT-LP5 and Tannoy XTs would be my choice, but it is a little over budget. Best, That mean if the minimum is 4 ohms @ 120 Hz (for example), and you use a 120W/8ohms amplifier, the result is this : Deciding between the Yamaha AS501 and the Marantz PM6005. hi i am thinking of getting this but i do almost all of my listing though high end headphones will this be ok or should i go for a headphone amp. If your laptop has a digital out connectn, run that into the yamaha’s DAC. Will continue to follow and enjoy your write ups. Thanks again for everyone’s input! I know that the MA’s out of the box is already quite bright – would you be able to point me to a warmer sounding Amplifier? I typically listen a mix of jazz, electronica, folk, and blues. Model: A-S501BL. While it’s not particularly sensitive, requiring the volume to be raised above that of most line-level sources, it’s quiet, distortion-free and sounds excellent. Cartridge loading is fixed at 47K ohms, 220PF – so it will work well with the majority of moving magnet cartridges. A great speaker should have you listening to the music, not the speaker. I’m lost with this stuff. People’s hearing shifts in its sensitivity of frequency extremes as volume levels change (and the tonal balance of a typical speaker changes with volume too). Thanks for your help! Hi,Ashley! Hi Ashley, thanx for your helpful review. I am always pleased to see a Yamaha review as mentioned elsewhere dealers are more than a little reluctant to demo their products, linked to the fact that their profits are about selling Linn, Naim, Arcam etc where I believe there is a higher profit margin. Remember to switch the impedance selector on the back to adjust the power supply. Tried to tame it with cables – and finally switched to tannoy eclipse 2 – works fine now Failing that, you may have a faulty mid range driver. So I have to take the driver to a professional service. The Yamaha was tested using Tannoys for this review, a pair of Precision 6.2s if I remember correctly. Reviews & ratings: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated Amplifier, 220W Dynamic Power at 2 Ohms, 10Hz-100kHz Frequency Response, Black MFR: A-S501BL. I don’t want noise at all. YBA-11 is not a hifi product I just purchased the S501 and a set of ELAC B5’s and the new Pro-Ject “The Classic” turntable for my office at work. However, these digital inputs are infinitely more useful than the proprietary iPod dock socket included with the previous A-S500 – and they allow you to hook up your TV, blu-ray player or even a cheap CD player/streamer for better sound. There was a problem. Both are terrific CD players and I’m confident that you will enjoy either if you like the Yamaha sound. I kid. Unless you’re using a turntable make sure you haven’t connected your source component to the ‘phono’ input, and if you’re using a computer or a device that has its own volume control try lowering that volume to be sure you’re not overdriving the amp. Thanks for any help. Yes, the 501 would be a better buy. 2. Thanks again . It’s big, bold and powerful sound is instantly likeable, it’s flexible enough to integrate well into almost any system, and it’s built well enough to provide many, many years of musical enjoyment. The result is just a bit better than using analog out of the behringer uca 202 usb dac and alot better then connecting to uca 202 optical out. Thinking about purchasing the Polk LSiM703 Bookshelf speakers. Would these really improve on the internal units ? If you want the best from your headphones a dedicated amp is a must. Glad you’re enjoying it and thanks for sharing your feedback. The signal is consistently doing digital. You should have 1 lead running to each speaker with the black (-) terminal on the amp connected to the black terminal on the speaker, and the red (+) terminal on the amp connected to the red terminal on the speaker. But for vocals, mids, and tight bass, this setup works extremely well. I wonder if this Yamaha amp will do the job or if I should be looking at something more expensive to replace what has been a superb amp in the SU55A? Any idea if I am facing a major problem? Thanks Ashley. The specs all seem similar but surely there are some difference? I think an A-S500 would be more of a side step in your case. That said the NP-S303 would handle all of your streaming needs and you would be able to enjoy the full quality of both Spotify premium and Tidal.
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